These instructions are for all installers, but homeowners receive shutters with pre-mitered frames, hinges attached and installation holes predrilled. NO MITERS HAVE TO BE CUT.

Installation Instructions for Custom #3 (Outside Mount)
Using rounded L-strip to create a 3-sided frame mounted on the wall surface (where
there is no existing trim around your window). See Figure Below.

This set of installation instructions is general in nature and should not be expected to answer all questions that may arise during an outside mount installation of Plantation Shutters. This type of mount is detailed, and is usually performed by an experienced shutter installer. Those without such experience should read and follow these instructions carefully, guided by good common sense in identifying steps in your project that do not match these general instructions.

Tools needed:

• Phillips screwdriver (power screwdriver recommended)

• Drill with pilot bit & 3/8” wood bit for counter-sinking screws

• Miter saw (power miter saw recommended) for trimming length of strips

• Drywall screws (2 1/4” recommended, not provided)

General parts list based on the details of your order:

• Shutter panels in correct sizes and numbers to fill the opening

• Framing Strips (you will “miter” cut to precise length needed)

• Butt Hinges (polished brass) with screws

• Inner-Panel Hinges (polished brass) with screws

• Magnetic Catches

• Touch-up paint (when appropriate)

Steps:
Unpack the cartons and carefully check for shipping damage and to see that you have all the items needed for your installation. Based on the size of the window opening involved, you should receive 1 or more individual shutter panels, 2 side mount strips, 1 top trim strip, appropriate hinges and magnets, and (if the product is painted) a small bottle of touch-up paint. We do NOT include mounting screws because specific requirements vary from window to window. If anything is missing, re-check the packaging. If it is still missing, or if the shipment sustained damage in transit, call us at the factory toll-free at 1-800-940-1021 Monday through Friday 7 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. Central Time.

1. These shutters are “custom” built, meaning that just as identical window openings vary slightly in width and height, the custom shutters built for those windows also vary to the same degree. Sort through the shutter panels in your order so that you know which panels combine to fit each window opening. Each shutter panel, on the end, will be marked with your acknowledgement number, and with the number of the item on the acknowledgement (item #1 = window opening #1) to help you pair the panels up.

2. Within each window grouping all shutter panels will be exactly the same height. Arrange the panels so that the rabbeted edges (see figure below) overlap each other properly. When all panels and mounting strips are placed together properly in this type of "outside” mount, the total width of the set should be 2 1/8th inches wider than the inside width measurement of your window opening. (Height should be 1 1/16th taller than inside height measure). The hinges are included but are not attached at the factory to help avoid damage in shipping.

The mounting strip sits on the sill and the shutter panels start 1/8 inch above the sill so they can swing freely, as in this drawing...

3. Install shutter panels with the “notch” for the pushrod at the top. When installed, the pushrod faces the room. (see figure below, left)

4. Each piece of mounting strip will have to be precisely cut. (see figure above, right) The 2 side pieces are “square” cut (90 degrees) at the bottom, and “miter” cut (45 degrees) at the top. The top trim piece is miter cut on both ends (for accuracy and joint appearance miter the top trim AFTER the side strips are permanently installed). The measurement from the square-cut end of the side strip to the short side of the miter cut should be ¼ inch longer than the length of the shutter panel that will be hinged to it. One half of this ¼ inch (1/8 inch) is for the swing gap between the shutter and the sill, and the other half is for the swing gap between the shutter and the top trim piece.

5. The edge of one shutter panel in each hinge joint is “mortised” ... a special cut on the edge where the hinge is to be attached. Using the provided screws, attach the larger “butt” hinges to the edges of the far left and far right shutter panels. Then attach the other wing of those same hinges to the mounting strips so that the front edge of the strip is flush with the front of the shutter panel when the hinge is closed. The barrel (pivot point) of the hinge should face the same direction as the pushrod, and the removable pin in the hinge should be “up” (same direction as the pushrod notch). Once this is done, remove the hinge pins and separate the strip from the panel.

6. If your window opening will contain more than 2 shutter panels, you need to attach shutter to shutter using the provided “innerpanel” hinges and screws. Where 2 panels meet with rabbeted (overlapping) edges, one of the edges is normally mortised, and that is where you attach the hinges. Remember, these panels will “bi-fold” so the barrel of the hinge must face the opposite direction from the ones in the previous step. Stand the 2 panels up on their edges on a padded surface with the pushrods facing opposite directions and the “notches” both at the same end. This places the 2 edges to be hinged in their proper positions beside each other. Make sure the tops and bottoms of the 2 panels are even, then attach the hinges.
Please Note: Screws must be firmly set, and must anchor in wood. DRYWALL (SHEETROCK) AND PANELING WILL NOT SUPPLY ADEQUATE STRENGTH IN MOUNTING, AND PRESENT A DANGER OF INJURY AND/OR DAMAGE. Your mounting strip must be attached to wood, or through drywall into wood.

7. Stand the left mounting strip on the sill with the right (inside) edge of the mounting strip even with the left edge of your opening. The mounting strip should be attached with long screws (your choice, not provided) through drywall into the stud in the wall as shown in the drawing at the top of the first page. Determine how many screws you plan to use with this strip (in most cases 4 screws per strip is adequate), and mark the "inside" corner of the strip in these locations. You will also need to pre-drill the countersink holes at an angle (as shown) so the screws will anchor securely into wood inside your wall.

8. Use the marks you made on this first strip as a guide to mark the same relative positions on the corresponding right strip. Drill at the proper angle “pilot” screw holes that are appropriate for the screws you have chosen to use. Then use a 3/8” drill bit to drill a shallow "counter-sink" hole that will give the head of the screw room to sink below the surface of the wood so it won't be in the way when the shutter closes.

9. Hold the prepared strip in place and attach it to the wall with the screws you have chosen. Do not use excessive force because this could split the wood. Once firmly attached, replace the hinge pins you removed in step #5. Carefully swing the shutter open to check for alignment problems in relation to the sill.

10. Repeat steps #8 and #9 for the other half of the window opening.

11. The remaining piece of mounting strip is the ornamental top piece. Miter cut one end at 45 degrees (like a picture frame joint) to match the angle cut on each side mount strip. (Note: There should be a gap of ~ 1/8” between the top of the shutters and the strip when finished.) Hold the strip in place and carefully mark exactly where the opposite miter cut should be made. Make that miter cut. Mark, pilot drill, and counter-sink the locations for your screws. Place the top piece in position and attach it to the wall, using care that on each end it forms a good joint with the side strip.

12. The magnets will be mounted at the top immediately behind the shutter panels on the edge of the top trim piece that faces down. With the left shutter panel open on it’s hinges, position a magnetic catch immediately behind the "stile" of the right panel. Using the 2 matching screws provided, attach the magnet to the top trim strip. Magnetically stick the strike plate to the magnet with the 2 tiny "points" facing the room, then gently press the shutter panel against the strike plate to make marks in the wood of the shutter "stile". Using those marks as your placement guide, attach the strike plate to the back of the "stile" with the smallest screw provided (see figure below, left). Using the same procedure, attach any other magnetic catches that are appropriate to your installation.

13. Use the touch-up paint (included if the shutters were painted at the factory) on any areas which were marred during the project.

14. All shutter panels come with "tension" screws deeply counter-sunk in each vertical edge. By simply turning the screw a little clockwise or counter-clockwise with your Phillips head screw driver, you can gently tighten or loosen the louver/pushrod tension in each individual panel to suit your preferences. When adjusting the tension, always spread the amount of adjustment evenly between all screws in BOTH edges of the individual panel (see figure above, right).

Custom Shutters, Inc. 811 West Main St. Como, Texas 75431 Toll Free: 1-800-944-1021 We're open 7 days a week, 7:00 am to 9:00 pm CST. Go ahead and call now; you'll be glad you did!