General Installation Instructions for Custom “Z” Mount Shutters

This mount provides a small frame for your shutters, and partially recesses into the window opening. It is NOT suitable for use where window trim exists. See drawing below:

This set of installation instructions is general in nature and should not be expected to answer all questions that can arise during an inside mount of Plantation Shutters. This type of mount is usually performed by an experienced shutter installer. Those without such experience should read and follow these instructions carefully, guided by good common sense in identifying steps in your project that do not match these general instructions.

Tools needed:
Phillips screwdriver (power screwdriver recommended)
Miter saw (power miter saw recommended) for trimming/mitering mounting strips
Drywall screws (2 1/4” recommended, not provided)

General parts list, based on this type of installation:
The shutter panels in correct sizes and numbers to fill the opening
Mounting Strips (“Z-Strips” to be trimmed to precise length needed)
Butt Hinges (mortise type) with screws
Inner-Panel Hinges (mortise type) with screws (when appropriate)
Magnetic Catches
Touch-up paint (when appropriate)


1. Unpack the shutters and carefully check for shipping damage and to see that you have all the items needed for your installation. Based on the size of the window opening involved, you should receive 1, 2, or 4 shutter panels, 2 side and 1 top mount strips (and possibly 1 bottom mount strip), hinges, magnets, and (if the product is painted) a small bottle of touch-up paint. We do NOT include mounting screws because it is impossible for us to know exactly what type, size, or length is appropriate for your home’s construction type. If anything is missing, re-check the packaging. If it is still missing, call the factory toll-free at 1-800-944-1021 Monday - Friday 7 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. Central Time.

2. Match up the shutter panels with the windows involved in your order. These shutters are “custom” built, meaning that just as identical window openings vary slightly in width and height, the custom shutters built for those windows also vary to the same degree. Sort through the shutter panels in your order so that you know which panels combine to fit in each window opening. Each shutter panel, on the end, will be marked with your acknowledgement number, and with the number of the item on the acknowledgement (item #1 = window opening #1) to help you pair the panels up.

3. Within each window grouping all shutter panels will be exactly the same height. Arrange the panels so that the rabbeted edges (see Figure “D”) overlap each other properly. These "recessed mount" shutters will NOT be as tall as the window opening, nor will they be (when put side-by-side) as wide as the window opening. The remaining space is filled by the "Z-strip" frame.



4. The edge of one shutter panel in each hinge joint is “mortised” ... a special cut on the edge where the hinge is to be attached. Using the provided screws, attach the butt hinges (see figure “B”) to the edges of the far left and far right shutter panels. The barrel (pivot point) of the hinge should face the same direction as the pushrod, and the removable pin in the hinge should be “up” (same direction as the pushrod notch).





5. Miter cut (at 45 degrees) one end of each “side” Z-strip. If you are installing these shutters in a 3-sided frame, carefully measure then cut (at 90 degrees) the other end of the Z-strip so that from the square-cut end to the short side of the miter cut, it is ¼ inch longer than the shutter panel. Follow this same procedure for the other side Z-strip, making sure the miter for that side is oriented properly to form a picture-frame-type corner.

6. Using the next illustrations as your guide, attach the side Z-strips to the hinges that were fastened to the far-left and far-right edges of your set of shutters during step #4. The Z-strip should project 1/8 inch below the bottom of the shutter panel to provide a “swing gap” (see illustrations following step #8). (If you are doing a 4-sided frame, the Z-strip should be positioned so that there is 1/8 inch between the end of the shutter and the short side of the miter cut at BOTH ends.)



7. If your window opening is to contain more than 2 shutter panels, you need to attach shutter to shutter using the provided “Inner-Panel” hinges and screws (see Figure B). Where 2 panels meet with rabbeted (overlapping) edges, one of the edges is “mortised”, and that is where you attach the hinges. Remember, these panels will “bi-fold” so the barrel of the hinge must face the opposite direction from the ones in the previous step. Stand the 2 panels up on their edges on a padded surface with the pushrods facing opposite directions and the “pushrod notches” both at the same end. This places the 2 edges to be hinged in their proper positions beside each other. Make sure the tops and bottoms of the 2 panels are even, then attach the hinges.

8. Place the left half of your assembled shutter set on the window sill. The notch for the pushrod goes UP. The Z-strip wraps around the corner of the wall/jamb on the side of your window opening. Remember, while the mounting strip sits on the protruding window sill, the shutter panel should NOT touch the window sill … a small gap of ~1/8th inch allows the shutter to swing open without scraping. (If you have no protruding sill, you may have ordered a 4-sided frame, in which case all 4 corners are mitered.



9. When you have accurately placed the left half of the shutter set, have someone hold it securely in place while you attach the Z-strip to the jamb using screws (2 ½” drywall screws normally recommended, but not supplied) as shown in the first drawing. The screw may be "counter-sunk". We recommend pre-drilling the screw holes. Excessive force will split the strip.

The screws should be firmly set, and must anchor in wood. DRYWALL (SHEETROCK) AND PANELING WILL NOT SUPPLY ADEQUATE STRENGTH IN MOUNTING, AND PRESENT A DANGER OF INJURY AND/OR DAMAGE. Your Z-strip must be attached to wood, or through drywall into wood.

10. Repeat these steps with the right half of your shutter set. Position the right half of the set so that the width of the gap in the center (where the shutter panels meet) is as narrow as you prefer. In rare cases, it may be necessary to “shim” behind the Z-strip before sinking the mounting screws to achieve a more narrow (“tighter”) gap in the center.

11. The remaining pieces of Z- strip are for the top of the 3-sided frame (and, optionally, the bottom of the frame for 4-sided frames). Miter cut one end of the Z-strip so that it will form a picture-frame-type corner with the side piece. Precisely mark the length and miter cut the other end so that it completes the frame at the top. With the shutter panels open on their hinges, slide this piece into position and use screws to securely attach it to the “header” of the window opening. Shim if necessary. Repeat this process for the optional bottom piece if your from is 4-sided.

12. With the left shutter panel hinged open, position a magnetic catch on the downward-facing flat surface on the back of the Z-strip attached to the header immediately behind the center "stile" of the right shutter panel(s). Using the 2 matching screws provided, attach the magnet to the Z-strip. Magnetically stick the strike plate to the magnet with the 2 tiny "points" facing the room, then gently press the shutter panel against the strike plate to make marks in the wood of the shutter "stile". Using those marks as your placement guide, attach the strike plate to the back of the "stile" with the smallest screw provided. See figure "M". (If you have a 4-sided frame, or a wooden sill, the magnetic catch may be placed on the bottom Z-strip or sill if you prefer.)

In most cases, a single magnetic catch for the right-hand panel in a 2-panel set will also hold the left panel because of the overlap of the rabbeted edges.

13. All shutter panels come with a "tension" screw counter-sunk in each vertical edge. By simply turning the screw a little clockwise or counter-clockwise with your Phillips head screwdriver, you can gently tighten or loosen the louver/pushrod tension in each individual panel to suit your preferences. When adjusting the tension, always evenly distribute the amount of tension among all tension screws in an individual panel. See figure "G".