Installation Instructions for Custom #6 (Inside Framed) Mount shutters

Using a square L-strip to create a 3-sided frame mounted inside the window opening.
This mount is typically used when the window opening is too shallow for a #1 mount.
See Figure Below




This set of installation instructions is general in nature and should not be expected to answer all questions that may arise during an inside mount installation of Plantation Shutters. This type of mount is detailed, and is usually performed by an experienced shutter installer. Those without such experience should read and follow these instructions carefully, guided by good common sense in identifying steps in your project that do not match these general instructions.

Tools needed:
Phillips screwdriver (power screwdriver recommended)
Drill with pilot bit & 3/8” wood bit for counter-sinking screws
Miter saw (power miter saw recommended) for trimming length of strips
Drywall screws (2 1/4” recommended, not provided)

General parts list based on the details of your order:
Shutter panels in correct sizes and numbers to fill the opening
“Square” L-Strips used as mounting strips (you will cut to length)
Butt Hinges (polished brass) with screws
Inner-Panel Hinges (polished brass) with screws
Magnetic Catches
Touch-up paint (when appropriate)

Steps:
1. Unpack the cartons and carefully check for shipping damage and to see that you have all the items needed for your installation. Based on the size of the window opening involved, you should receive 1 or more individual shutter panels, 2 side mount strips, 1 top mount strip, appropriate hinges and magnets, and (if the product is painted) a small bottle of touch-up paint. We do NOT include mounting screws because specific requirements vary from window to window. If anything is missing, re-check the packaging. If it is still missing, or if the shipment sustained damage in transit, call the factory toll-free at
1-800-940-1021 Monday through Friday 7 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. Central Time.

1. These shutters are “custom” built, meaning that just as identical window openings vary slightly in width and height, the custom shutters built for those windows also vary to the same degree. Sort through the shutter panels in your order so that you know which panels combine to fit in each window opening. Each shutter panel, on the end, will be marked with your acknowledgement number, and with the number of the item on the acknowledgement (item #1 = window opening #1) to help you pair the panels up.

2. Within each window grouping all shutter panels will be exactly the same height. Arrange the panels so that the rabbeted edges (see figure below) overlap each other properly. When all panels and mounting strips are placed together properly in this type of "outside” mount, the total width and height of the set should be the same as the inside width and height measurement of your window opening. The hinges are included but are not attached at the factory to help avoid damage in shipping.




The mounting strip sits on the sill and the shutter panels start ~1/8 inch above the sill so they can swing freely, as in this drawing ...

3. Install shutter panels with the “notch” for the pushrod at the top. When installed, the pushrod
faces the room. (see figure below, left)

4. Each piece of mounting strip will have to be precisely cut. (see figure above, right) The 2 side pieces are “square” cut (90 degrees) at the bottom, and “miter” cut (45 degrees) at the top. The top trim piece is miter cut on both ends (for accuracy and joint appearance miter the top trim AFTER the side strips are permanently installed). The miter cut at the top of the side mounting s trip should be placed so there will be a 1/8 inch “swing” gap between the bottom of the shutter and the sill, and another 1/8 inch “swing” gap between the top of the shutter panel and the part of the top strip that fits above it. Use extra care to NOT cut the side mounting strip too short.

5. The edge of one shutter panel in each hinge joint is “mortised” ... a special cut on the edge where the hinge is to be attached. Using the provided screws, attach the larger “butt” hinges to the edges of the far left and far right shutter panels. Then attach the other wing of those same hinges to the mounting strips so that the front edge of the strip is flush with the front of the shutter panel when the hinge is closed. The barrel (pivot point) of the hinge should face the same direction as the pushrod, and the removable pin in the hinge should be “up” (same direction as the pushrod notch). Once this is done, remove the hinge pins and separate the strip from the panel.

6. If your window opening will contain more than 2 shutter panels, you need to attach shutter to shutter using the provided “innerpanel” hinges and screws. Where 2 panels meet with rabbeted
(overlapping) edges, one of the edges is normally mortised, and that is where you attach the hinges. Remember, these panels will “bi-fold” so the barrel of the hinge must face the opposite direction from the ones in the previous step. Stand the 2 panels up on their edges on a padded surface with the pushrods facing opposite directions and the “notches” both at the same end. This places the 2 edges to be hinged in their proper positions beside each other. Make sure the tops and bottoms of the 2 panels are even, then attach the hinges.



Please Note: Screws must be firmly set, and must anchor in wood. DRYWALL (SHEETROCK) AND PANELING WILL NOT SUPPLY ADEQUATE STRENGTH IN MOUNTING, AND PRESENT A DANGER OF INJURY AND/OR DAMAGE. Your mounting strip must be attached to wood, or through drywall into wood.

7. Stand the left mounting strip on the sill against the left window jamb with the back edge of the strip recessed at least ¾” from the wall surface. The mounting strip should be attached with long screws (your choice, not provided) to the jamb as shown in the drawing at the top of the first page. Determine how many screws you plan to use on this strip (in most cases 4 screws per strip is adequate), and mark the strip in these locations.

8. Use the marks you made on this first strip as a guide to mark the same relative positions on the corresponding right strip. Drill “pilot” screw holes that are appropriate for the screws you have chosen to use. Then, if you desire, use a 3/8” drill bit to drill a shallow "counter-sink" hole that will allow the head of the screw to sink below the surface of the wooded mounting strip.

9. Hold the prepared strip in place and attach it to the jamb with the screws you have chosen. The screws must anchor solidly into wood inside your window jamb (do not depend on drywall for support). Do not use excessive force because this could split the wood. Once firmly attached, replace the hinge pins you removed in step #5. Carefully swing the shutter open to check for alignment problems in relation to the sill.

10. Repeat steps #8 and #9 for the other half of the window opening.

11. The remaining piece of mounting strip is the ornamental top piece. Miter cut one end at 45 degrees (like a picture frame joint) to match the angle cut on each side mount strip. (Note: There should be a ~ 1/8” gap between the top of the shutters and the strip.) Hold the strip in place and carefully mark exactly where the opposite miter cut should be made. Make that miter cut. Mark, pilot drill (and counter-sink) the locations for your screws. Place the top piece in position and attach it to the header (top inside surface of the window) using care that on each end it forms a good joint with the side strip.

12. The magnets will be mounted at the top immediately behind the shutter panels on the edge of the top top mounting strip that faces down. With the left shutter panel open on it’s hinges, position a magnetic catch immediately behind the "stile" of the right panel. Using the 2 matching screws provided, attach the magnet to the trim. Magnetically stick the strike plate to the magnet with the 2 tiny "points" facing the room, then gently press the shutter panel against the strike plate to make marks in the wood of the shutter "stile". Using those marks as your placement guide, attach the strike plate to the back of the "stile" with the smallest screw provided (see figure below, left). Using the same procedure, attach any other magnetic catches that are appropriate to your installation.

13. Use the touch-up paint (included if the shutters were painted at the factory) on any areas which were marred during the project.

14. All shutter panels come with "tension" screws deeply counter-sunk in each vertical edge. By simply turning the screw a little clockwise or counter-clockwise with your Phillips head screw driver, you can gently tighten or loosen the louver/pushrod tension in each individual panel to suit your preferences. When adjusting the tension, always spread the amount of adjustment evenly between all screws in BOTH edges of the individual panel (see figure above, right).