Custom Shutter Installation Instructions for Custom Inside Mount using Hanging Strips.
In this method, the shutters fit fully inside the window opening. There is no frame.

This set of installation instructions is general in nature and should not be expected to answer all questions that may arise during an inside mount installation of Plantation Shutters. This type of mount is detailed, and you should read and follow these instructions carefully, guided by good common sense in identifying steps in your project that do not match these general instructions.

Tools needed:

• Phillips screwdriver (power screwdriver recommended)

• Drill with 3/8” wood “paddle” bit (optional, for counter-sinking screws)

General parts list:

• Shutter panels in correct sizes and numbers to fill the opening (see Figure “A” … 2 shutter panels illustrated)

• Hanging Strips (1 1/8” x 3/4”) for each window jamb (pre-hinged, see Figure “G”)

• Stop Strip (3/4” x 3/4”) for each window sill (pre-cut to length)

• Drywall screws for mounting strips (~2 1/4” long)

• Wrap-Around Hinges with screws (see Figure “B”)

• Inner panel Hinges with screws (see Figure “C”)

• Magnetic Catches (shown as part of Figure “H”)

• Touch-up paint (when appropriate)

Toll-Free Customer Service: 1-800-944-1021

Steps:
Unpack the cartons and carefully check for shipping damage and to see that you have all the items needed for your installation. Based on the window opening involved, you should receive 1 or more individual shutter panels, 2 hanging strips, 1 stop strip (for top or bottom), “drywall” mounting screws, hinges already mounted with pins removed, and magnetic catch set(s). If the product is painted, a small bottle of touch-up paint may be included. If anything is missing, re-check the packaging. If it is still missing, or if the shipment sustained damage in transit, contact the retailer where you purchased the shutters.

1. These shutters are “custom” built, meaning that just as identical window openings vary slightly in width and height, the custom shutters built for those windows also vary to the same degree. Sort through the shutter panels in your order so that you know which panels combine to fit in each window opening. Each shutter panel, on the end, will be marked with your acknowledgement number, and with the number of the item on the acknowledgement (item #1 = window opening #1) to help you pair the panels up.

2. Within each window grouping all shutter panels will be exactly the same height. Arrange the panels so that the rabbeted edges (see Figure “D”) overlap each other properly. When all panels are placed together properly, the total width of the set of panels should be about 1/4 inch less than the width of the window opening. The panels should also be 1/4” shorter than the height of the opening.

3. Install shutter panels with the “notch” for the pushrod at the TOP. When installed, the pushrod faces the room. (see Figure “A”)

4. Match up the hanging strips and shutter panels for each window opening, and insert the hinge pins that were removed at the factory. The removable pin in the hinge should be “up” (same direction as the pushrod notch). See figure B. When the hanging strip is properly positioned with the hinge closed, the strip will be BEHIND the shutter, not at the edge of the panel.

5. If your window opening will contain more than 2 shutter panels, each shutter-to-shutter joint was also pre-hinged at the factory using the inner-panel hinge shown in figure C. Replace those hinge pins, too, to make sure that all panels fit properly together.

6. When all strips and panels for a particular window are properly matched up, remove the hinge pins that join the hanging strips to the panels. Using a 3/8” paddle bit, drill “counter-sink” screw holes into the 3/4” side of each strip near the top and bottom, and at regular intervals along that side. When properly done, the hanging strip will swing behind the shutter panel with the “counter-sink end” of the screw holes facing away from the window jamb. These counter-sink holes should be deep enough to allow the head of the screw to be below the surface when attached. In most cases, a total of 4 counter-sunk screws in each strip is adequate.

7. Position the hanging strip/hinge wing on the window jamb, line up the front edge with the wall surface, and use screws in the counter-sink holes (2 1/4” drywall screws provided … if jamb is other than wood or drywall, use other appropriate fasteners!) to attach the hanging strip to the window jamb. (see Figure “G”) Carefully lift the far left shutter panel into position in front of the hanging strip and replace the hinge pins. Position any other (optional) panels beside the first one and replace the hinge pins. When these steps are properly completed, these shutter panel(s) should be able to swing freely without scraping (~1/8” gap) at the top and bottom.

8. Repeat this process with the shutters for the other (far right) half of the window opening. It may be necessary (when window opening is out-of-square or off level) to adjust the strips up or down, in or out to achieve even clearance at the bottom and shutters that are in a flat plane.

(NOTE: If you have sills of marble or any material other than wood or drywall, do not proceed with the next step! The stop strip can be put at the top of the window.)

9. The stop strip (3/4” x 3/4”) fits between the 2 hanging strips. Counter-sink near each end and in the middle (3 is usually enough). Place it on the window sill between the hanging strips and adjust it “front to back” so that when the shutters come to rest against it they will be exactly where you want. Attach the stop strip to the sill through the middle counter-sunk screw hole first, using a drywall screw. After placing the middle screw, line up one end of the stop strip with the hanging strip and secure it in place. Do not be concerned if the other end doesn’t line up exactly. When placing the final screw, use pressure on the strip to insure that it meets the hanging strip squarely.

10. Where the shutters come together in the middle of the window the right panel overlaps the left panel. Swing the left panel(s) fully open, then close the right panel(s) and lightly mark where the shutter actually touches the stop strip. This is where you will place the magnetic catches. Using the screws provided, attach the magnet to the stop strip. (see Figure “H”) Magnetically stick the strike plate to the magnet (with the 2 small points facing the room). Close the shutter and gently press in the area of the magnet so that the points make indentations in the shutter. Position the strike plate using those indentations as your guide, and attach the plate using the smallest screw in the package. If you have trouble placing these screws, drill very small “pilot” holes first.

11. Position and attach all other magnets in their respective locations using the same procedure.

12. All shutter panels come with "tension" screws deeply counter-sunk in each vertical edge. Do NOT plug these holes. By simply turning the screw a little clockwise or counter-clockwise with your Phillips head screwdriver, you can gently tighten or loosen the louver/pushrod tension in each individual panel to suit your preferences. When adjusting the tension, always spread the amount of adjustment evenly between all screws in BOTH edges of the individual panel (see Figure “H”).

13. Painted orders are usually shipped with a small container of matching touch-up paint. If any scratches were made in the finish during installation, use a small “modeler’s” paintbrush and cover them with this paint.

Custom Shutters, Inc. 811 West Main St. Como, Texas 75431 Toll Free: 1-800-944-1021 We're open 7 days a week, 7:00 am to 9:00 pm CST. Go ahead and call now; you'll be glad you did!